Foundation - The Perfect Match

It has been a good few years since I had done some foundation testing. With new formulations constantly emerging, I thought it might be time to possibly expand my range.  Foundation is the hardest product to get right and it is so obvious when it is wrong.  The garish fluorescent lighting in department stores only makes it harder to see if it matches.   Beauty counter staff can be helpful but vary in their knowledge, get the wrong one and another mistake purchase is likely.  Don’t be tempted to test it on the back of your hand, as the colour is different to your face.  Best to ask for a sample and try it at home in natural light, it’s not just the colour that needs to be right.  It’s the formulation.

Please note that I am basing the testing of the following products on how they looked and felt on my skin.  Take into account what your skin type is and if the formulation will be right for you. 

NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30

I recently invested in the Nars tinted moisturiser.  As the weather gets warmer, I prefer to let my skin breathe a little.  Smashbox and Laura Mercier are old favourites.  The Nars RTM gave me a slight bronzed glow and it has a lovely light silky texture with a dewy finish a little goes a long way but if you have any blemishes you will need a concealer.  It’s a keeper.

Nars All Day Luminous Weightless Foundation

Now I have been reading about this everywhere online. I got a couple of samples in the colours Tahoe and Cadiz.  When I first tried this my skin was extremely dry, so it wasn’t ideal.  Firstly let me point out that I couldn’t believe how little is needed to cover the entire face.   A single drop gives the face a good coverage.  Based on this alone this foundation would be very good value for money.  Once applied, you do need to work quickly with a beauty blender, foundation brush or even your fingers to get an even finish.  It covers blemishes and uneven skin tone extremely well with a velvety finish.  However, I felt like it was clinging to the dry patches on my face and as a result felt heavy on my skin. I persevered as I wanted to see how it would wear throughout the day.  It lasted very well but again due to my skin being dry it did get a bit patchy.  As for the colour, I went with Cadiz but I am undecided as it is not an exact match, it looked slightly orange on me.  I will be going back to test another colour and maybe after mixing two colours I will create the perfect shade.  I did apply this again a week later when my skin felt more hydrated and it was comfortable and long wearing. Impressive and a must for all you Nars fans.  I did find it had a bit of flashback so if you are going to be photographed it’s not ideal.  I wouldn’t use this on brides for that very reason.

Chanel Vitalumiere

I have friends that absolutely adore this foundation.  It was perfection to apply and the coverage is fairly light but it is buildable up to medium coverage. My skin felt hydrated and it gives a dewy finish.  My gripe, yes the colour.  I tried 60 Hale and it is too light and there are only eight shades in the range, so am not holding my breath.

Laura Mercier Silk Crème Foundation

I really like this foundation.   It feels like you are not wearing makeup and gives really good coverage.  The colour cashew is too light, I was in a hurry and the beauty consultant decided this was my colour and I didn’t check (big mistake).  This is why you should always get a sample first, never just buy it.  Believe me I had a draw full on useless purchases prior to my training.  It is a cream foundation so if you are used to a sheer foundation this will feel different but it is really comfortable on the skin and provides long lasting velvety finish.  Apply a small amount and make sure you blend it really well. Don’t use too much as it can look like a mask.

Bobbi Brown – Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF40

A brand new launch from the amazing Bobbi Brown.  Part foundation/part skincare with SPF.  This felt fabulous on my skin.  It gives a light coverage like a tinted moisturiser and the added SPF is a great bonus for all of you that forget to apply sunscreen.  Did it last all day? No, not quite but as more of a tinted moisturiser that’s to be expected. The packaging is gorgeous but be warned, the dropper applicator is messy.

Conclusion

So my list is by no means exhaustive, with so much available on the market it is difficult to keep up, however I will continue to swatch others.   I was disappointed as I really wanted to find something that I loved.  My skin can be a little patchy and can be difficult to match without it looking flat, yellow, grey etc. etc.    At present I will be reserving my judgement and sticking to my Bobbi Brown foundation stick and the Armani Luminous Silk.   Please feel free to let me know what your recommendations are and what works for you.

Bare Faced Chic

So we are couple of weeks into 2015.  How’s it going for you?  January can be a hard slog with all the detoxing and dryathon’s (and whatever other resolutions you are putting yourself through), chuck in some dreary weather and all we want to do is curl up and watch the next big box set.

After years of making unrealistic new year resolutions, I decided a couple of years ago to be a little more kind to myself and make some ‘feel good’ resolutions, things I will definitely feel the benefits from but also won’t make me utterly miserable during the process!   For example learning a new skill, reading certain books, reconnecting with old friends, juicing, cutting out processed food, the list (mine anyway) could go on and on.

What would be on your list?  How about starting or adapting your skincare routine.  Did you know that skin is the body’s largest organ and the one that is constantly exposed to the elements?  Do you treat yours with respect?  A little TLC will go a long way.  If you don’t really pay your skin much attention, make your feel good resolution to start taking care of it.  I promise you it doesn’t need to be expensive or time consuming and any make up you will apply will only look better. You never know it might even give you the confidence to skip the make-up occasionally!

Here is my run down of the basics.

Cleansing

The essential component and one that you simply cannot skip.  Use a cleansing cream/balm or even an oil.  A muslin cloth or a flannel (depending on the sensitivity of your skin, if you have acne avoid this) really helps to buff and lift the dirt from the face.   I am not a fan of facial wash as they are harsh and strip the skin of moisture, anything that foams up too much is usually too drying and full of chemicals.  Best to stay away from anything which has mineral oil as an ingredient. Wipes do not count as cleansing except in an emergency. Invest in your skincare, prevention is better than cure.

Cleansing should be done morning and night. If you find you are too tired just before bed, do this earlier in the evening.  Use a 50p size amount of cleanser and massage into your face include the eye area and neck, if you are using a hot cloth, soak with hot water, wring out excess and use in circular movements around the face, pay particular attention to the corners of the nose.  Don’t be too abrasive around the eye area.  Rinse the cloth halfway and repeat the process.  If you are only using cleanser use your fingers to massage it thoroughly into the skin.  If you are wearing heavy make-up this may need to be done twice.

Exfoliate

There are many exfoliators on the market today from scrubs to liquid formulations.  Some are for spot prone skin and others are anti-ageing, do your research before buying. Do not use anything which has kernels of apricot or synthetic beads.  (St Ives =no). A product which has been milled to a fine powder is kinder to your skin and a liquid is far more superior to a scrub. There is a wealth of information online which can help you (Take a look at Caroline Hirons blog – amazing advice).  If you find your skin reacts to the product obviously stop using it.  Initially exfoliate once a week and then build up the usage to 2/3 times a week.

Serum

This truly is a hero product.  It can address all kinds of skin concerns. As its concentrated a little goes a long way.  Use morning and night after cleansing.

Moisturiser

In my experience people generally do not use enough moisturiser.  Especially those with spot prone skin or oily skin (oily skin is usually dehydrated below the surface).  Everyone should have a good moisturiser, it only makes skin look and feel better.  Personally I cannot bear my skin without a good injection of hydration, it plumps up the skin and prepares it for make-up.  I would avoid any moisturiser that makes wild claims, they are simply untrue (i.e. younger, firmer skin, blah blah blah) Do not neglect your neck, no one likes a chicken neck!

Sun Protection

Absolutely essential.  Generally I prefer a separate SPF to my moisturiser but if you are lazy some coverage is better than none. In the winter you can use a factor 15 but in the summer a factor 30 should be used.  You can get some really good sun block’s now, gone are the chalky, sticky heavy feeling creams, todays sun block are surprisingly comfortable and hydrating.  Use your common sense, we all need a dose of vitamin D but after that sun protection is the best way to achieve younger looking skin.

Night Treatment

 Using a separate night cream which is a little richer or a plant based face oil will help your skin recuperate overnight.  I tend to use my serum and then a facial oil, a few drops will suffice (avoid the eye area), if my skin is feeling particularly dry I will also use a moisturiser over the oil. 

Additional products

Eye makeup remover – if your cleanser doesn’t do the job.

Face masks – Nice for a treat or to address a particular skin problem.

Toner – To be honest I feel it is more of an outdated concept, brings back memories of using astringent witch hazel to treat my teenage skin!  However, will do some current research on the topic and let you know!

Eye Cream- If your moisturiser makes the skin around your eyes react then invest in an eye cream (use sparingly, too much and you will end up with puffy eyes), otherwise use your normal moisturiser.

Spot cream - Use after all the skincare is done, just onto the spot with a clean cotton bud, best done overnight.

So there you have it.  On a daily basis

Cleanse,

Serum

Moisturise

Sun block (if your moisturiser does not have SPF)

Shouldn’t take more than five minutes and after a couple of weeks your skin will be looking brighter and you can feel smug that you have achieved a new feel good resolution.  I would love to know how you get on.  Please feel free to like/ share and add any comments.

Party SOS!

Are you getting stressed thinking about the festive season? Have you got that ‘wow’ party outfit yet? Along with shopping for the perfect accessories, take some time to think about adapting your make up for the special nights out to turn heads for all the right reasons.  With our makeup bag of tips and tricks we can give you the confidence to step away from the same old routine.  Are you ready to look and feel fabulous?

If you only have 20 minutes in the ladies loos before you dash off for the work bash, organisation is key.  Plan your look in advance and above all else, keep it simple. Unless you are an expert at applying false lashes and liquid liner, this is probably not the time to try it out.  We have all been there (yes even me!)  When you are in a rush and one line looks different to the other and the false lashes adhere perfectly to one eye but the other is just a mess.  You end up flustered, frustrated and annoyed!  NO, don’t do it to yourself. Avoid the complicated stuff and follow these simple rules to get fuss free application with maximum wow factor.

Firstly ensure your base is looking fresh. Your skin is probably looking a little tired from the working day.  Start again.  Grab a face wipe (not ideal but its quick and easy to throw into your bag) and clean the skin, apply moisturiser and lip balm and whilst that starts to sink in start on your eye makeup.

Christmas is the one time of year where a little bit of sparkle is almost compulsory.  Apply an opulent gold eye shadow over the lid, a cream eye shadow would be perfect for this as it gives a lovely metallic finish. Add definition to the eye by blending a rich bronze or deep chocolate brown from the outer edge into the socket.  Bring the gold to the inner corners of the eye for an ethereal finish.

If gold is not your style and  you would like a more vibrant look, line your eyes with a kohl pencil in cobalt blue, emerald green or regal purple and if you are feeling daring go over the upper and lower outer 1/3rd of the eye with a glitter liner.  Really fun, effective and very quick.

For a speedy smoky eye.  Take a deep dark espresso brown eye shadow and deposit it close to the lash line blend and work the shadow upwards and outwards to create a cat eye shape.  Brown is more forgiving than black, so it’s easier to blend when you are in a hurry.  If you are a fan of pigments Barry M does some great bronze pigments flecked with gold.  Pigments are best applied with a long handled sponge applicator (Muji does a great one), make sure that you don’t brush pigment on to the lid as it just makes a mess and ends up all over your face,  press the shadow onto the lid and then blend gently.  Use a black kohl pencil to line the waterline.  Take the kohl to the upper waterline too this creates a more dramatic look (be cautious if you are a contact lens wearer).

Create dramatic lashes by curling your eyelashes and apply two coats of black mascara, invest in a product that is lengthening and thickening.  Groom your brows if they are a little sparse, fill them in with feathery strokes (never use black) and brush into place.  Use a highlighting product under the brow bone.  Benefit’s High Beam is a classic that suits all skin tones.

Now apply your foundation and concealer, set your base with a translucent powder. Doing your base after eye makeup ensures a clean flawless finish.

Use a soft blush on the apples of your cheeks.  Always helps if you smile whilst doing this!  Highlight and contour under the cheekbones with a warm bronzer. 

You can really have fun with the lips.  The best thing to do when you are in a hurry is to go for a statement lip colour.  Deep berry, ruby red, fuchsia.  You can get some great lipsticks on the high street.  My current favourite range is by Bourjois – Velvet liquid lipstick.  I have 4 from the current collection.  Use a matching lip liner if you like your lips to be defined.  A good lip brush is vital to achieve the perfect pout, especially when using bright hues. Finish off with a lip gloss if preferred.

Music on, glass of bubbly in hand. This is when you can get the falsies, the assorted pallete of eye shadow and liners out.  If you are stuck for inspiration, take a look at your favourite celebrity for ideas.  Some other makeup suggestions are:

Smokey - Dark eyes and nude lips

Dramatic – Dark lips and gold eyes

Pretty– Fresh peach & iridescent silvers

Playful – Vibrant peacock colours

Carry a beautiful compact and lipstick to ensure you look picture perfect all night.

London Fashion Week S/S 15 - Makeup Trends

So London Fashion Week is over and the madness has moved on to the other fashion capitals. However, it’s not just the clothes and the front row celebrities that are the focus for LFW.  The makeup that is showcased on the catwalk usually translates into the trends that you will see in the coming months, all be it more realistic and wearable versions.

One thing that stood out for me looking at the makeup from LFW is that it all seems to be much more deconstructed.  There seems to be a move away from the perfect excess of WAG culture that had hung around for way too long.  The looks all had something of the 90’s about them.  Some designers had the minimal, clean no makeup look, ( don’t be fooled though this look takes more make up than you think, it’s usually very clever artistry using a palette of neutrals and focusing on textures rather than colour)  good skin and groomed brows.  Think of those classic CK ads that epitomised that era.

Here is the lowdown on the looks that stood out for me. 

Firstly one that you possibly might want to avoid on a Saturday night out.  

Image Courtesy of Daily Mail via Getty

Sophia Webster’s models were made up to look like they had come from a fantasy jungle rave, "Babes in a Cave" completely barmy but great fun.

Tom Ford

Image Coutesy of Tom Ford – tumblr

You can’t get more glamorous than Tom Ford.  Always a show stopper. Fords models oozed sex appeal with a smoky eye rocker chick vibe with pink nude barely there lips.  This look is highly achievable. Ensure your skin is concealed but go easy on the foundation, a light liquid coverage will be enough. Warm up the skin with a matte bronzer and use a hint of baby pink on the cheeks to create a soft veil of definition rather than obvious colour. The best way to achieve the perfect smoky eye is blending with a small blending brush.  Blend, blend and when you think you have done enough blend some more that the key to a soft smoky eye.

Marchesa

Image Courtesy of  Harpers bazaar via ImaxTree

Romantic Marchesa showcased a bohemian look with Bardot inspired black liner, kohl rimmed eyes and tousled hair, once again the skin looked clean and neutral with a fresh pout.  No flaky lips allowed.  Grab an old toothbrush and gently exfoliate the dry skin and then apply a lip balm.

House of Holland

Image Courtesy of House of Elle.com

Disco eyes.  The perfect make up for the upcoming festive season.  Use eyelash glue to press large glitter pigment onto the eyes at inner corner, take it higher than your eyelid to achieve a slightly geometrical shape.  The eyes are the focal point so ensure that the rest of your make up is neutral.  Eyes or lips, that’s usually the rule...If you are not that brave, try a glitter liner use it over black liquid liner for just a hint of sparkle.

Jean Pierre Braganza 

Image Courtesy of  Pinterest via The Cut

Amy Winehouse style bold black felt tip liner that encases the lid with a straight edge flick and gun metal shadow/pigment in the centre for a futuristic, Barbarella style look.  

Felder Felder

Image Courtesy of ImaxTree

Colour was focused on the lower lash only.  Sea green liner worked on fair skins and on the darker skinned models yellow was used for a 60’ style look.  Sea greens is the more wearable. If you have darker skin tone a rich emerald or regal purple pencil would be easier to wear than yellow. 

Topshop Unique

Image Coutesy of Topshop Inside Out

Red berry lips looked just kissed. Imperfectly applied for a worn in effortless look.  Everyone can do this without even trying.

Burberry 

Image Courtesy of @Burberry via Twitter

Burberry models walked the catwalk with beautiful sun kissed dewy skin, achieve this using illuminators and liquid foundation. Ruby red velvet lips were the focus, apply with a lip brush and then gently soften the centre slightly with your finger.

Giles

Image Courtesy of  Elle.com

Smoky eyes with a twist – using inky blues and black.  Love this take on a classic smoky eye, midnight navy which fades as you reach the outer ¼ of the eye.  A modern, sophisticated look.  If you have close set eyes avoid this method as it will make them look smaller.  Great for almond shaped eyes. An alternative is to try a traditional smoky eye using navy instead of black or smoke up with navy only along the lash line.

Michel van der Ham

Image Courtesy Zimbio

Gold leaf eyes, winged eyeliner and rosebud lips. Dramatic for the catwalk with the gold leaf. The winged liner is captivating and has a distinct 50's feel.  Get practicing with that liquid liner.

Duty (so not!) Free…

Can you resist having a browse through Duty Free pre-holiday?   I know that I for one most definitely can’t!  As I was travelling en famille I knew time would be tight so, like the beauty junkie that I am, I did a little research ahead of time for the goodies I should purchase.

Tom Ford. No, Tom was not on my list but I was seduced by the rows of smoky glass bottles and gilded make-up packaging that are pure elegance.  The heady scent of Jasmine Rouge eau de parfum was calling to me but the £140 price tag did make me think twice, restrain myself and stick to the list. 

Back to reality. First stop was Lancôme for their Bi-Facil eye makeup remover and the classic Hypnose mascara.  I am always on the hunt for a gentle but effective eye makeup remover.  I have extremely sensitive eyes, am a contact lens wearer and need a product with the strength to remove eye makeup that is applied for longevity!  Definitely not an easy brief.  The Bi-Facil is extremely gentle which means no stinging and streaming eyes.  As it is quite emollient, it's not abrasive and ensures that the eye area is not dragged. For the everyday wearer of makeup it will definitely do the trick in 2 to 3 splashes onto a cotton pad.  I like to wear waterproof mascara and its takes around 3 /4 splashes of the cleanser to really lift the mascara.  The bottle design ensures you only get droplets out, which is great because as it’s not cheap its best to be economical.  It is an extremely effective cleanser. Would I repurchase?  Most likely, I assume that the bottle will last me 3-4 months and as it’s not harsh, I would rather spend the money and save my lashes rather than dragging and rubbing to get the day's eye make up off.

Luxury – 9/10

Price - £21 (ouch!)

Effectiveness 9/10

I was on the lookout for a new mascara.  I purchase a new mascara at least every 2/3 months, from high street brands to luxury ones.  I am a big fan of the Diorshow mascaras, they create voluptuous lashes without the clump and the black is very black.  However, I fancied a change and Lancôme are famous for their mascaras so I thought I would try one out after a few years of experimenting.  I chose the classic Hypnose waterproof in black.  I have to say that I am in love with this mascara!  It glides on and the brush really gets to the root of the lashes, even the tiny ones.  It’s an intense black so even on my dark lashes it creates a real false lash effect.  The brush is quite thin and the bristles are evenly distributed so on my lashes it gives more curl, especially on the outer lashes. You can build up layer on layer and it will not clump and result in spidery lashes.  I usually apply two coats for an evening look and it doesn’t flake or smudge which is the holy grail of mascaras.  This is the reason that Lancôme are the company that the rest imitate when it comes to mascaras.  Will I be repurchasing?  Yes, now a staple in my professional kit.

Luxury - 8/10

Price - £22.50

Effectiveness - 9/10

My final stop was at Dior to take a look at their Glow Maximiser – Light Boosting Primer.  I have various light boosting products in my kit, from the classic Strobe Cream by MAC to one of my favourite’s Benefit’s High Beam.  Dior’s offering however is something of a hybrid product and can be used as a primer or a highlighter.  Firstly, please let me explain that this is not your average highlighter/primer.  The silky luminous liquid is very luxurious, however use it sparingly, a pea sized amount will suffice, a little goes a long way otherwise Edward Cullen standing in the sunlight comes to mind!  I used this on holiday as a highlighter applying strategically on the cheekbones, brow bone etc, it gave a lovely radiance to the skin without any silicone heaviness.  Now that I am back in the grey, my skin could definitely do with a lift.  Mixed with a liquid foundation (Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation is a match made in heaven) it really does give an ethereal glow with no iridescence, I predominantly use it on my cheeks and on the t-zone I stick to the high points. This product is great for when your skin needs a pick me up and a "lit from within" glow.  I can see this is going to be a firm favourite especially in the upcoming winter months.

Luxury  - 8/10

Price - £28.50

Effectiveness - 8/10

Liz Earle Healthy Glow Cream Blush - Review

I am a firm believer that you only need a few core products to put your best face forward and the right blusher can transform a look in an instant.  Liz Earle Healthy Glow Cream Blush is one of the latest products that I am loving right now.  Generally cream blush is great for dry skin, ageing skin and for use in colder climates, however I have found this one suits most skin types, apart from very oily. 

For those of you that don’t know anything about Liz Earle, let me give you a quick bio.  Liz has a background in beauty journalism, worked on breakfast TV and is a successful author of many beauty books.  After seeing a nutritionist who advised her to take evening primrose oil for her eczema, she realised that what we put on our bodies and into them has a massive impact.  Sharing this wisdom with her friend Kim who had a background in beauty marketing they realised there was a real gap in the market for natural, luxury beauty products.  From there Liz Earle Botanicals was born.  They began with 4 core products, which were available through mail order (some of you are probably too young to remember what that is!)  Cleanse and Polish hot Cloth Cleanser was the hero product and once QVC introduced the range, demand for the products exploded. 

Since then the product line has expanded from skincare to body care, hair care, sun care, men’s skincare, a makeup line & now a treatment room at their brilliant flagship store in Chelsea.  However Liz Earle’s ethos has remained the same over the last 15 years and that is to provide beauty products that are produced from organic, botanical and ethically sourced ingredients.  Liz Earle have always shied away from big budget advertising relying on word of mouth.  They believe their customers are their best advertisement.  I couldn’t agree more!  Simple no fuss, classic packaging and products that work.

Shade: Coral 05

The Cream blush come is a range of colours.  I have coral which is a mid-tone blush that would suit medium golden skin.  The benefit of cream blush is that you can build up the layers to create a stronger effect, its best to start of sparingly though as you can easily overdo it. The blush gives the skin a soft, pretty summery glow without feeling heavy or overly greasy.  The best bit is that it actually lasts, usually cream blushers disappear within the hour (especially in the heat) but this one does not budge.  You can use a short hair flat wide cheek brush or your fingers to apply it. I generally use my fingers on myself and a brush whilst working on clients.  For perfect application, smile and dab on with the ring finger onto the apple of the cheek and blend gently towards the hairline.  Please do not use circular motions!  Build up if you want a more vibrant look, it will take a few minutes to dry to a velvety finish.  You can also use them on your lips. Personally coral is a little too light for my lips.  That’s it, perfect with a tinted moisturiser, mascara and lip gloss for a dewy summer look.

Liz Earle Healthy Glow Blush is available in 7 shades and is priced at £16.50 for 2g.

http://uk.lizearle.com

Christian Louboutin launches signature nail polish

The famous Parisian shoe designer has unveiled a luxurious new nail polish, his first foray into the world of beauty, and there are no prizes for guessing what colour it comes in.

photo © Christian Louboutin

Priced at $50 in the US, Rouge Louboutin is described by the brand as “a timeless, vibrant red suited to any skin tone.” Eight inches high, the bottle was inspired by the Ballerina Ultima shoe, the tallest heel Christian Louboutin has ever created, and features ombré-effect faceted glass and a pointed metallic cap that contains the brush. Said applicator is in a triangular shape designed to pick up the polish and deposit it on your nails without any air bubbles ruining the party.

Gucci Launches Make-Up Line

Picture credit: Indigital

GUCCI is launching its first cosmetics line, confirming rumours that emerged last year. The fashion house has chosen Charlotte Casiraghi, the daughter of Princess Caroline of Monaco and a long-standing Gucci muse, to front the campaigns.

The new collection will include eye, lip, nail and face make-up as well as brushes and skin preparation products, and will be produced with P&G Prestige, the company behind key fragrances such as Gucci Guilty and Gucci Première. Pat McGrath is creative design director of P&G's beauty division, and is currently the make-up artist responsible for the make-up looks at Gucci's ready-to-wear shows.

Source: Vogue